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Fabric-dyed
A term used to describe a garment whose color was produced through the dyeing of the fabric. See also garment-dyed and yarn-dyed.
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Face
In fabric, a term used to describe the front of the fabric.
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Fagoting
A type of embroidery that creates a delicate ladder effect on cloth. An old handcrafted form that is now often mimicked by machines, fagoting involved the drawing out of horizontal threads of a fabric and the tying together of vertical threads in groups to leave open gaps in between. Often used for linens, curtains, tablecloths and women’s and girls’ garments, fagoting is a special detail evoking simple charm.
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Faille
A fabric, usually made in silk or silklike synthetics, that is distinguished by a slight vertical rib and mainly used for women’s dresses and suits.
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Fair Isle
A sweater featuring a colorful geometric design, often knit in soft, heathered yarns. Named after one of the Shetland Islands in Scotland, the Fair Isle sweater became popular in the 1920s when worn by the duke of Windsor. Today, the Fair Isle continues to offer a cozy winter look.
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Felt
A nonwoven fabric in which fibers are pressed and pounded and held together with heat and steam.
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Fiber
The product from which yarns are made.
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Filling
A technical term referring to the yarn running horizontally in a fabric. The filling yarn is also referred to as the weft yarn.
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Finish
A process performed on a fabric after it is woven that can dramatically change its look and feel. Fabric, for example, can be boiled, mercerized, dyed, printed, calenderized, napped, glazed or waterproofed.
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Fisherman's sweater
A heavy, hand-knit, patterned sweater often made in natural, water-repellent wool. Originally worn by Irish fishermen, this sweater had utilitarian beginnings. The elaborate stitches formed patterns that were unique to each village, acting as an identifier in case the fisherman was lost at sea. Legend also claimed that each intricate stitch held wishes for the fisherman’s safety and success at sea. Today, the fisherman’s sweater is a classic, mainly used to reflect country style.
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Flannel
A tightly woven fabric, usually cotton or wool, that is brushed to achieve a soft surface and additional warmth. From the Welsh word gwlanen, or “wool,” flannel has become a fabric staple for cotton pajamas and robes, men’s shirts and fine wool suitings and outerwear.
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Flap pocket
A pocket in which you have to lift a covering to access the opening.
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Flat-felled seam
A method of joining two edges of fabric to provide the most durable closure possible. First, the two pieces of fabric are layered on top of one another, back to back. Then, the two edges are stitched together, leaving some seam allowance on one side of the stitch. Next, the bottom layer of the seam allowance is cut down and the top layer folded over it. Finally, the folded seam allowance is pressed to one side and finished with two parallel rows of stitching. Flat-felled seams often finish denim jeans as well as garments made of easily unravelled fabrics like silk or nylon.
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Flat-front
A term used to describe a trouser with no pleats. Flat-front men’s trousers are rumored to have their origins in post-WWII Italy, where tailors who were taken with the blue jeans worn by visiting American GIs decided to translate the jean look to tailored slacks. Flat-front trousers came to typify the 1960s and came back recently as a clean and sleek option for trousers.
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Flea market
A sales venue, typically held outdoors, in which secondhand goods are sold. From the French marché aux puces, literally “market with fleas,” the designation was said to have developed because buyers and sellers at these markets were so active that they jumped around like fleas. Flea markets have now become a popular pastime for those searching for good deals and rare vintage items, especially clothes and jewelry, that have timeless appeal.
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Fleece
While it always is wool sheared from a sheep, fleece can be either the first coat taken from a lamb, often referred to as the high-quality lambswool, the wool sheared from an adult sheep or a sheep’s hide tanned with the wool intact for use as fur.
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Flounce
A strip of fabric, which is cut in a circle, cut on the bias or cut in a straight line and gathered, which is attached to the edge of a garment, and ripples for feminine effect.
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Fly
In fashion, a button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth.
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Forward pleat
A pleat in which the fold faces outward. Often used in trousers, the forward pleat typically appears in sets. When there are two forward pleats on either side of the fly, this is referred to as double forward pleats.
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Foulard
A lightweight, lustrous, printed silk, rayon or acetate twill that features a repetitive geometric design and is most often used for neckties or dress scarves.
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Foundation
In women’s clothing, a term used to describe undergarments, such as the bra, that shape the body, thus providing the form over which clothes fall.
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Four-in-hand
A necktie fastened in a slipknot with long ends left hanging one in front of the other. Once worn by English coach drivers, who were called four-in-hands because they operated vehicles by holding the reins of four horses in one hand, the style was popularized by college students who wore the ties as insignias for their riding clubs. The four-in-hand is now the most common tie knot that looks best with a standard shirt collar. To tie a four-in-hand, follow these instructions:
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extending 12” below the narrow end on your left.
2. Loop the wide end over the narrow end.
3. Pull the wide end through the neckhole.
4. Holding the smaller front loop loosely with your index finger, continue pulling the wide end through the smaller loop.
5. Remove your finger and tighten the front knot carefully. Tighten it around the collar by holding the narrow end of the tie and sliding the knot into its desired location.
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Fully fashioned
A more expensive method of knitting a garment in which the complete unit is shaped and knit on the machine, as opposed to being sewn together from separate pieces.
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